Chod Rig Help From Team Mainline
Top carpers from the Mainline Team give their advice and tips for fishing the ever popular Chod Rig...
Q: I have been using the Chod rig on a 4ft leadcore leader. I have hooked several carp and lost them all. Two of these losses were right near the net. A guy from down the bank who was manning the net said I needed a soft boom to stop the hook pulls. I don't get it, what is he on about? He also mentioned dumping the lead but how do I do that, the lead is on the leader?
JOHN KNEEBONE SAYS...
"This is a great question because the Chod Rig does seem to have a reputation for being so user friendly that it’s easy to believe you can just cast it anywhere and your job’s a good-un, when in actual fact (and kind of how you’ve discovered) there is much more to it. The first thing I would do is think about the initial hooking process and the type of takes you are receiving to try and gain the best, strongest hook hold possible.
So always combine a good, super-sharp Chod design hook with a reliably buoyant pop-up – one that can hold what is essential a heavy rig in the optimum position for a good length of time (24hrs). If your pop-up isn’t up the job and your rig is laying flat in weed or chod after a few hours you’re already lowering your chances of landing fish.
Next think about the position of the beads on the leader and the distance between them for your hooklink to run? Having the beads close together, say just a few inches may create a little more resistance from the lead and improve your hook hold. On the other hand positioning the beads say a few feet apart may be the way forward if fish are wise to a chod and perhaps you’ve been receiving twitchy takes. Either way a few trials should indicate which set-up style is best.
As for the soft boom suggested to you, I wouldn’t be looking to include this as if I thought it necessary I’d prefer to employ a Hinge Rig or Multi-Rig along with a lead clip arrangement. That said, the advice about dropping the lead I would strongly recommend, as with it being so close to the hook hold due to the short hooklink of the Chod Rig there is an increased risk of the lead bouncing-out the hook during the fight.
Thankfully I don’t need another two pages to explain how to set-up a lead release system from an array of tweaked components, because a number of leading tackle manufactures now produce purpose built systems, complete in a pack. I strongly suggest a visit to your local tackle shop to check these out. They’re very simple to use and dropping the lead, which will also see the hooked fish swim much higher in the water, will significantly increase the number of carp you land."
Q: When using the Naked Chod, I’m confused as to how to let it all land on the water. If I trap the line then isn’t the rig falling on a tight line and, so, it doesn’t settle on top of the weed. Should I just let it all land on its own? If so, how do you then tighten the line down without the rig pulling into the weed again?
ELLIOTT GREY SAYS...
“I’ll start by saying that it’s extremely rare for me to fish into the weed with Chod Rigs, although I use them a hell of a lot. I still find it very important to be positioning the rig in the clearer areas. I don’t mind if there’s a little weed about, but if it’s thick weed, I’m not happy. The important thing for me is the drop, and as long as I get a positive indication that the lead has made it to the bottom, without coming into contact with weed on the way down, then I’ll leave it. If I am to feel the line brush the weed as the lead falls then I’ll re-cast. I’m more than happy to fish over silkweed, low-lying weed, gravel, silt, or clay, by positioning Chods amongst weed that’s grown over six-inches off the deck is something I don’t do. If I was to do so then I would use a long, Running Chod and then make sure that the Chod Rig sinks very slowly, and once the lead lands I’d let the line sink of it’s own accord. As for how it’s landing on the water, I do nothing different to the norm and feel the lead down exactly how I would in any other situation. It’s when sinking the line that I try to make sure that I’m not doing any damage to the presentation, and will always sink the line as straight a line as possible, between me and the spot. Once the line has broken the surface film, I then put the rod in the rest with the tip up and allow the line to sink of its own accord, gradually pay more and more line out until it’s completely slack off the tip. By doing it this way you’re not only ensuring that the leader hasn’t tightened, but your line will also have sunk from the rig back to the spot, ensuring the perfect line lay.”
Q: Is there an easy way to change Chod Rigs without having to strip all the leader down and remove the lead, only to have to thread on the rig and then put it all back together again?
ED BETTERIDGE SAYS...
“It depends what you want to achieve and what needs changing. If you just need to change the hook after it has been blunted after a capture, or if you need to quickly change hook size or pattern to balance out the hookbait, then a Chod fished Multi-Rig style could be the answer. Essentially what I mean by that is, instead of tying the Knotless-Knot (or Whipping-Knot) with the Mouthtrap to hook, just double a length back on itself and tie a Loop-Knot to the swivel. The doubled end can then be threaded through the eye of the hook, followed by a rig ring and then looped over the point Multi-Rigs style. This allows for a very fast change of the hook and the doubled Mouthtrap creates a stiffer section, which holds its curve better than a single section will. If you need the whole rig to be changed I recommend a Quick Change Swivel, where you can simply hook the loop on the end of your Chod Rig through and secure it with a rig sleeve. This will allow the whole rig to be changed and you can either alternate between a Chod and a normal helicopter set-up."