2. SNAG/WEED FISHING.

What changes would you make to your tackle for fishing in weed or against snags. Tackle for snag and weed fishing needs to be as strong as possible and I will normally use a braided mainline. Hooklinks will be made out of 25Ib braid. The leads will be on weak bottoms or safety clips to allow, in case of breakages, the lead to fall off for fish safety.

Do you always look for clear patches in the weed or would you place a baited rig actually in the weed. I do try to find clear spots however big or small in the weed but on occasions when fish have shown in thick weed I have presented 2ft long links into the weed. I normally use PVA foam to allow the hook bait to gently land down on the weed. I have found this quite successful on several occasions.

What other changes would you make to your set up for fishing up to snags, ie;indicators, security of rods, setting of clutch and so on. Whilst fishing tight to snags I prefer to fish locked up. I always try to fish with my butt eye behind the buzzer thus if a fish pulls the rod will not slide off the rest. I find Fox rear butt rests hold the rods nice and firm to stop slipping. Indicators will be fished at the top of the rod to allow for the drop back if the fish swims away from the snags.

Are there any differences to hitting runs when fishing in weed or snags. Striking into fish with an agenda of making sanctuary in weeds or snags leaves no choice but to not give an inch which is fairly hairy but necessary to put fish on the bank.

Is your baiting any different in this situations. I do try to bait away from the snags and draw the fish out when possible.

Explain your rig set ups and why they are used, ie; if you use short, fixed rigs, then why etc. I normally use snakebite or a braided hooklink. I find these more abrasive against weeds and snags. Nylon hooklinks I find more suitable for my open water fishing. I prefer longer hooklinks 12 inches plus whilst fishing in weed unless in a PVA bag where I will shorten the hook length to as little as 4 inches. All will be used with safety rigs or weak bottoms to allow the lead to fall off.

3. HOOKS.

What patterns are your every day hooks. Carp R Us Centurions size 8-10 and Fox Series 5.

Are there any other hooks that you use for different styles of fishing and if so, why. For all my weed/snag fishing both home and abroad I use Fox Series 2XS. Normally size 2-4 for abroad size 6-8 for my British fishing.

Do you use the same hooks for pop-ups as you do for bottom baits. No, I prefer to use Fox stiff rig hooks for my pop-up rig.

Do you ever use a hook sharpening stone. No never.

What knot do you use for tying your hooks. No knot.

4. POP-UPS.

Why use a pop-up. Normally to present a bait above any debris on the lake bottom or for fishing high attraction single hookbaits.

When do you use a pop-up. I will normally use a pop -up on at least one rod whilst fishing and have a rod set up with a high attract bait ready to cast to any fish showing.

Are there any other rig changes when fishing with a pop-up, ie length of hook length, hook size, wieght of lead, fixed lead or running lead. My preferance for a pop-up rig is a Terry Hearn Hinged stiff link this comprises of a 12"boom section of 20lb nylon connected to a smaller 2"rig with a fox stiff rig hook this gives an excellent
Pop-up presentation. I use a fox helicopter safety rig with a 3-5oz lead depending on the distance required.

How do you make your pop-ups. Ie;do you use cork balls, microwave them or other. Strait out of the mainline tub!

Do you increase the attractor levels when making pop-ups. No.

5. HOW WOULD YOU APPROACH A SHORT VISIT TO A DAY TICKET WATER.

What features would you look for and explain swim selection. Basically when I turn up at a new day ticket water I will have a walk around the lake first with a water bottle, I will be looking for signs of fish showing, checking all overhanging bushes and trees, pads etc. I will talk to other anglers already fishing the lake to see what has been caught and what they have seen. If I cannot find any signs of fish I will call upon my water craft as to where I think the fish may be.

What would your baiting levels be and how much bait would you introduce straight away, after each run and so on.
Whilst setting up, I would cast my rods out with single baits in case I fall upon fish straight away. Then whilst the rods are in the water I will start to feature find with my plumbing kit. Once interesting areas are found I will bait according to the stock of the lake. I always say it is easier to put it in than to take it out. So I fish for a fish at a time. It does not hurt to have one rod with a good amount of bait around it but I certainly don't put all my eggs in one basket.

Are there any differences to your bait for this style of fishing and if so, what. Again Mainline baits.

Would you stick with boiled baits for the first visit or if particles etc were allowed, would you use them. If particles are allowed I would always try them on one rod and boilies on the rest and see which would score first.

6. FEATURE FINDING.

How important do you consider this in fishing and how much time do you spend finding features when;

a) Fishing your own, full time water where you plan to spend most of your time and efforts.
A lot of time will be spent feature finding and searching out the lake bottom. I will build up a knowledge of all potential features around the whole lake. This would be done in the close season or during the winter and would only need to be checked again if the weed was to grow.

b) Fishing a fun type water that you may visit from time to time in the hope of some action.
A short time will be spent finding depths and features with these sort of waters showing fish is the best give away.

c) Visiting a day ticket water for the first time.
As I said before, I would cast my rods out first and then feature find giving myself the maximum fishing time and a chance of falling upon fish.

On your main water, if fishing a swim that you have fished several times, do you still use a marker rod for feature finding and if so, for how long. Depending upon the feature, large gravel patches are simple, just feel the lead down but for small bars, lumps and bumps or holes in the weed I would use a marker float.

Do you use anything special for feature finding in the way of tackle etc. Basically a Fox dart float 4 ½ oz lead with a 12inch boom to allow for weed along the bottom. I use Fox marker braid and a Fox depth measure rod.

Does this set up change for being used in weed or at long range etc and if so, how. No.