 Mainline Panellist Dave Lane Answers Kev's Questions
1. GENERAL APPROACH TO WINTER FISHING.
Baiting levels whilst actually fishing. Usually just hookbaits in the coldest months.
Baiting levels when packing up or pre-baiting. Depending on stock and level of activity I always like to put at least a pound or more of bait in when I leave a fishery although if I was pre-baiting and it was showing results I would use a lot more. I always try to scatter the bait to make it harder for the tufties to clean it all up.
Do you scale your tackle down for the winter and if so, give some examples. I usually lower my line strenth to allow for clear water visability and as there is less weed I find you can usually lighten the hooklinks as well.
What are your views on bait for the winter and suggest a cold water bait and with what attractor levels. My all time favorite bait for winter is Mainlines 'Grange bait' although the new NRG is proving to be a good cold water bait as well. For attractor baits and single pop-up's I don't think that you can really beat the 'Fruitellas'.
What sort of swim would you choose or what features would you look for on a new water, ie snags,weed,deep water etc. I find that shallow pits seem to make the best winter waters, they respond quicker to a change in temperature. I also feel that fish lay at varying depths in the deeper pits during winter, often far off the bottom. Snags are always a good area to check in winter and regardless of ridiculously shallow water, fish feel very safe in these areas.
2. SNAG/WEED FISHING.
What changes would you make to your tackle for fishing in weed or against snags. Most of my fishing is done in weedy lakes anyway so I am usually geared up for this type of fishing and snags require similar 'stong arm' tactics. The most important aspect is that the fish can rid themselves of the rig should an accident occur and your mainline break. Leads should only be fished in a snaggy swim if they can detach easily from the line, drop off clips are ideal. I usually use 15lb 'Barbuster' line which handles most situations.
Do you always look for clear patches in the weed or would you place a baited rig actually in the weed. All though I am sure that I have caught fish in weed I have hardly ever, deliberately, placed a bait in thick weed, I always try to find a clear patch.
What other changes would you make to your set up for fishing up to snags, ie;indicators, security of rods, setting of clutch and so on. I have found, in recent experiments, that a tight line and locked up clutch actually gives you the worst indication system of the lot! Although it offers the advantage of giving the carp the minimum line to reach the snags it is far outweighed by the very late indication of a pick up. I prefer (where possible) to fish with no stretch in the line and (hopefully) receive an early enough indication to pull the fish clear before it can gain momentum. At night however I would lock up tight and fish a full clutch.
Are there any differences to hitting runs when fishing in weed or snags. Only when fishing a 'no stretch' set up, the stretch must be taken up quickly so running backwards while winding like a loony is not out of the question!
Is your baiting any different in this situations. Not really no, although it is better not to put all the freebies tight to the snags, I try to encorage the fish to feed in 'safer' water.
Explain your rig set ups and why they are used, ie; if you use short, fixed rigs, then why etc. I generally use a hing or combi link made from a stripped back coated braid. Either snakebite or Fox 'Mask' for most of my fishing, especially snags. Nylon is my only other choice and my first for open water. Fixed rigs for the braid and either fixed on running for the nylon, depending on what I am trying to achieve on the day.
3. HOOKS.
What patterns are your every day hooks. Fox series 5
Are there any other hooks that you use for different styles of fishing and if so, why. I always change to Fox XS series 2 for heavy duty snag or gravel work as the fine wire and points of the series 5 are not up to this type of fishing. However, I always add a bent piece of shrink tube to the shank to make them work in the same way as the series 5's.
Do you use the same hooks for pop-ups as you do for bottom baits. Quite often yes, although I will often use a smaller hook with a bottom bait for a more balanced (weight) presentation.
Do you ever use a hook sharpening stone. Never, Ever, there is no way on this planet that you can ever return a blunt hook to it's former glory.
What knot do you use for tying your hooks. No knot.
4. POP-UPS.
Why use a pop-up. Single bait attraction, or to overcome bottom detrius.
How do you make your pop-ups. Ie;do you use cork balls, microwave them or other. I either open a tub of Mainline pops or I open a tub of Ian Russel pop's, is there another way then?
5. FEATURE FINDING.
How important do you consider this in fishing and how much time do you spend finding features when;
a) Fishing your own, full time water where you plan to spend most of your time and efforts. Very important indeed. I like to map out as much of the contours as I can and build a picture of the whole lake. I do not think that there is any need to constantly re-check the details every time I fish however. After all gravel bars rarely get up and move do they?
b) Fishing a fun type water that you may visit from time to time in the hope of some action. I like to know the shallows from the deeps and at least one feature that may produce.
c) Visiting a day ticket water for the first time. I'd probably ask the owners for as much info as possible before fishing, I would not spend all day plumbing but if I planned to return I may well plumb before I left.
On your main water, if fishing a swim that you have fished several times, do you still use a marker rod for feature finding and if so, for how long. No, not if I already know the swim.
Do you use anything special for feature finding in the way of tackle etc. Braided line and a rod with a very fast action (Fox Depth Measure) I also use a specialised 'carrot shaped' marker for weedy swims.
Does this set up change for being used in weed or at long range etc and if so, how. The 'carrot' weed markers are more limited for range so I use a dart float for maximum range and a nylon leader to help the float come up easily.
6. FISH SPOTTING AND WATER CRAFT.
How important do you think that this is to your fishing and does it make any differences to you results or confidence. It is all important and makes up the entire basis of succesfull carp angling; if they aint there you can't catch em!
What do you look for. Anything fishy really, bubbling, rolling, jumping, flat spots in the waves, released oils from the bottom causing 'flat spots', anything out of the ordinary. I don't think that you can spend too much time looking as it only takes a few minutes to actually catch a carp when you are in the right spot!
Do you keep written records and/or drawings etc. No, I keep it in my head.
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