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Mainline Baits - Carp Baits for Carp Anglers and Carp
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Dear Panel,

I have just started fishing a gravel pit with depths of 20ft. With most fish feeding in the upper layers, I would like to know how to set up a Zig Rig. I can’t see a safety clip and a 12ft+ hooklink being very safe for casting purposes, and, more importantly, for fish safety.

Ben Thompson,
Doncaster.


Hello Ben,

Zigs can be a bit tricky, but there are a few basic ways of ensuring they don’t become a nightmare.
Firstly, always use the lightest lead you can to achieve the distance required, this will dramatically reduce tangles. To set up the end tackle arrangement, I personally always use a Helicopter Rig as I find this the easiest and most tangle-free method.

What I do is get a short piece of leadcore, only a few inches long after splicing a loop in each end. On one end I loop the lead, usually about 1 or 1.5oz. I then thread on a JRC Heli-Gripter Bead which has a detachable top bead with an extra large hole bored into it, and a large-eyed swivel. This ensures safe passage of the hooklink if a breakage occurs. The reason I still use leadcore for this rig is that it is the only really safe way to use Helicopters, as the pressure of the swivel on the main line while playing a fish will cut through straight monofilament. I then tie up a long hooklink using a light mono, as light as I can get away with according to the fish size and weed, etc.

Helicopter Rigs are the easiest.
Helicopter Rigs are the easiest.

For a Zig hook I like a small hook with an out-turned eye or reverse bend shank. Personally, I only use a MBT4 nowadays because they are razor-sharp and ideal for Zigs and stiff links, they also have a non-reflective coating which helps a lot when you are fishing high up in the water on a bright sunny day. I tend to keep the Hair very short and almost fish the bait tight to the back of the shank because I find this hooks a lot more than when using a longer Hair.

Large-bore bead in case a break occurs.
Large-bore bead in case a break occurs.

For bait I have a tub of naturally-coloured small Mainline Maple pop-ups as I don’t like using bright attractor baits for Zigging. Anything between 10mm and 14mm is fine. I also use darker baits and sometimes just a small piece of dark foam. I don’t think the flavour is that important, but I just have a lot of confidence in the Maple, so I stick with it.

My choice of hook for Zigs.
My choice of hook for Zigs.

Casting with a long hooklink (up to 12ft) can be a nightmare; over 12ft and you will need somebody else there at all times to net your fish for you.

I always employ the ‘cup’ method for any Zig over 6ft as it eliminates the risk of hooking the bank, bivvy, or the back of your head! Place a tea mug on the floor about eight to ten feet behind you and simply put the hookbait inside it, this keeps everything safe and tangle-free. Make sure you have enough overhead room and cast as normal, but watch the flight of the lead carefully as the last stage is vital. A split second before the lead hits the water, trap the line against the spool with your finger and keep the rod tip high, this will stop the lead and force the hookbait to arc out in front of the lead, eliminating tangles as it sinks. You should see two splashes and they should be the length of the hooklink apart; if they are closer then you may have tangled the hooklink.

Indication is also a bit different with Zigs. It’s one of the only times I fish with a bobbin nearly up tight, usually just an inch or so below the blank. Lots of Zig bites are dropbacks or strange bouncy affairs. Basically, if the bobbin is dancing in any way, hit it!

Hopefully you can make some sense of all this and, combined with a few pictures, you should be safe Zigging in no time.

Good luck,

Dave Lane